Routes

Kain Face (IV): The most popular route on the mountain and another Rockies classic. Although many climbers use a helicopter to fly most of the way up the mountain to The Dome, this misses out on the true Robson experience and removes much of the challenge. We will spend 1 long day or 2 shorter days hiking & scrambling to an amazing campsite about half way up the mountain on the Patterson Spur. From high camp we will start at around midnight and continue scrambling up to a rock ridge between Mt. Robson and Mt. Resplendant. Some climbing along the rocky ridge leads us to the glacier below the ice face known as the Kain Face. A few hundred meters of 50 degree snow or ice climbing brings us to the long upper ice slopes known as “the roof”. This challenging upper section leads over some wild ice & snow features until eventually reaching the summit! Descent back to high camp is made by the same route, and then down to the road the following day. All trips are scheduled to allow for at least one bad weather day. If time, weather, and energy levels allow, ascents of the Helmet or Mt. Resplendant may also be attempted.  Typically a 4 day trip.  Summit day is often 20+ hours on the go. 1 guest only.  

Other Routes: CRAG’s head guide Jay Mills has climbed a number of other routes on Mt. Robson including Infinite Patience (VI, M5, 5.9) on the Emperor Face, The Emperor Ridge (V, 5.7), The Fuhrer Ridge (IV, M4), and the traditional Kain Face route via Berg Lake.  Although it’s unlikely that any of these would be available for guiding, it is possible he would consider it with a very skilled guest and excellent climbing conditions.