Canadian Rockies Alpine Guides - Mountaineering and Climbing in the Valhalla Range of British Columbia

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Box 40087
Canmore, AB
T1W 3H9

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Climbing in the Valhallas of British Columbia, Canada.

Climbers on a guided trip up Mount Gimli in the Valhalla Range.

Location: Southern British Columbia in the Slocan Valley. A few hours south of Revelstoke, or a couple hours north of Nelson, BC.
Season: July - Mid-September
Logistics: Allow a full day to drive to the Valhalla Range from Calgary or Vancouver. The final part of the drive is on rough logging roads and a high clearance vehicle is required, preferably 4 wheel drive. Four to six days are recommended for a climbing trip into this true wilderness area. There are no facilities, but the camping areas are spectacular!

The Best Climbs

There are lots of excellent climbs in the Valhalla's! With routes ranging from 4th class to 5.12, there is something for everybody. Some of the very best routes are described below:

Mount Gimli - South Buttress (III 5.9)

Mount Gimli, the South Buttress climb follows the striking prow on the sun/shade line.

Elevation: 2774m / 9100ft
Length of Climb: 10 - 12 hours round trip.
Max Group Size: 2
Prerequisites: Multipitch rock climbing experience up to 5.9. Good fitness.

This is the showpiece climb of the area and is one of the best alpine rock climbs in Canada. The South Buttress offers 9 pitches of excellent climbing on featured gniess (similar to granite) in a wilderness setting. It is not uncommon to have the mountain to yourself. The descent is pleasant and involves some downclimbing on the East Ridge.

This climb can be done in a long day from the parking area, but setting up a campsite at the base is recommended.

Mount Asgard - SW Ridge (II 5.7)

Climbers on top of Mt. Asgard with the Mulvey Basin below.

Length of Climb: 6 - 10 hours round trip from camp at base.
Max Group Size: 2
Prerequisites: Multipitch rock climbing experience up to 5.7. Good fitness

A great rock climb up the South West ridge of Mt. Asgard. There is lots of moderate crack climbing on the route and the rock is high quality gniess throughout! The views from the summit are simply incredible!

A day of mountain travel is required to reach a camp at the base of this peak. The campsite in the Mulvey Basin is absolutely fantastic with lots of giant boulders, shimmering lakes, and towering rock walls all around. Very fit climbers may be able to do the approach to camp and climb Mt. Asgard in the same day, but a more relaxed pace is recommended.

Mount Asgard - South Face (III 5.8+)

Guide J. Mills leading on the South Face of Mt. Asgard in the Valhalla Range of southern BC

Length of Climb: 8 - 12 hours round trip from camp at base.
Max Group Size: 2
Prerequisites: Multipitch rock climbing experience up to 5.9. Good fitness.

A more difficult route directly up the south face Mt. Asgard. From camp in the Mulvey Basin, a short approach leads to the base of the route. The climbing works it's way up a number of great pitches with lots of cracks, corners, and face climbing pitches.

Scrambling & Easy Rock routes

Max Group Size: 4
Prerequisites: good fitness.

There are a large number of excellent ridge climbs to the various summits of the Valhalla range that do not require difficult rock climbing. The Wolf's ears, the East Ridge of Mt. Gimli, and many more peaks in the area offer great climbs that can be completed by larger groups (up to 4 people per guide) and are fun days out in the mountains. Difficulty ranges from moderate scrambles to 5.4 rock climbing. Most of the peaks require camping in one of the beautiful backcountry sites scattered througout the range.

Gear List

All technical equipment & group camping gear is provided free of charge except for boots. However, if you have your own gear, feel free to use it! Rental and purchase information for boots, clothing, and personal camping gear can be found here. If you are unable to locate any of these items or have any questions, feel free to contact us at any time for assistance. When booking a trip, please let us know what gear you would like to borrow.
  • Hiking or mountaineering boots.
  • Harness - provided if required
  • Helmet - provided if required
  • Crampons - depending upon routes & time of year
  • Sweater/Fleece
  • Rain Jacket
  • Rain Pants
  • Long Underwear
  • Gloves
  • Toque
  • Sunglasses (important!)
  • Headlamp (with extra batteries)
  • Sunscreen
  • Water Bottles (2 litres)
  • Hiking Poles (optional)

Overnight Gear:

  • Tent - provided if required
  • Mid sized Pack, 45 Liters or bigger - available for loan
  • Medium weight sleeping bag (-5C or warmer).
  • Sleeping Pad.
  • Booties/flipflops/lightweight shoes for around camp.
  • Food. You can bring your own food or purchase our meal packages, inquire for details.
  • Book for the evenings. (optional)
Canadian Rockies Alpine Guides (CRAG) - - Canmore, Alberta, Canada