Canadian Rockies Alpine Guides - Guided climbs of Mount Victoria, near lake louise Alberta, Canada.

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Mountaineering guides in the Canadian Rockies & Columbia mountains.
Rock climbing in Alberta
Ice climbing in Alberta & British Columbia, Canada.


Box 40087
Canmore, AB
T1W 3H9

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"Thank you for a wonderful adventure on Mt. Victoria! You did a great job, your skill and competence keep us coming back and always feeling safe!"
Pat & Susie - Calgary, Alberta

Mt. Victoria Blog postings:
Sep 2009

Climbing Mt Victoria above Lake Louise Alberta

Dawn on Mt. Victoria ridgetop from an early morning climb of Mount Lefroy

Elevation: 3464m, 11365ft
Location: Lake Louise. 45 minutes from Canmore, 2.5 hours from Jasper.
Season: June - September
Logistics: Some routes require a stay at a beautiful hut and a bus reservation to access the valley. This trip is best combined with an ascent of Mt. Lefroy in a 3 day outing. Other more difficult routes can be completed in one long day or with a bivi at the base of the route. The area is easy to reach along the Trans Canada Highway #1.

The tremendous views of the Lake O' Hara area from climbers on Mount Victoria

South East Ridge - South Summit (II)

Length of Trip: 2 medium length days with a night at the Abbot Pass Hut.
Max Group Size: 2
Prerequisites: reasonable physical fitness and at least a day or two of previous climbing experience of any type.

This is the classic route up the mountain and is an excellent introduction to Rockies mountaineering. After taking a half hour shuttle into the gorgeous Lake O Hara region, a steep 3 to 4 hour climb leads to the Abbot Pass Hut where we will spend the night. The next morning we will rise early and begin the climb. The route consists of low angle rock climbing, ridge travel, and some moderately steep snow and ice slopes. After an excellent few hours of climbing the south summit is reached. If conditions and energy levels allow we may choose to continue on to the main central summit. Descent is via the same route.

Two climbers with their guide climbing Mount Victoria via the South East Ridge.

North East Ridge - North Summit (II)

Length of Day: 12 - 15 hours, or two days.
Max Group Size: 2
Prerequisites: One day of glacier travel training (can be scheduled the day before), experience wearing crampons, and good physical fitness.

This route climbs the right side of the mountain as seen from Chateau Lake Louise. It is somewhat longer and more challenging than the S.E. Ridge route. There is lots of glacier travel and snow climbing in a spectacular setting to reach the ridge itself, which is then followed to the summit.

North Face - North Summit (III)

Length of Day: 12 - 15 hours
Max Group Size: 2
Prerequisites: Previous glacier travel and alpine ice climbing experience. High level of fitness. Only recommended for those who have climbed a couple of other glaciated peaks.

This good, but challenging, route ascends a very broken glacier and a number of ropelengths of steeper ice to reach the North summit of the mountain. Climbing through the maze of crevasses is a memorable experience!

Climbing Mount Victoria

Other Routes

  • Mt. Lefroy - West Face (II) - classic ice gullies lead to the summit of this 11000er from the Abbot Hut. Best combined with an ascent of Mt. Victoria as a 3 day trip.

Other Expenses

Guests are responsible for covering all of the costs for their guide as well as themselves.

Abbot Pass Hut - $36/person per night + GST (2008).
Lake O'Hara Bus - $14.70/person + GST (2009)
NP Wilderness Pass - $9/person per night + GST (2008)

The ACC Abbot Pass Hut between Mt. Victoria and Mt. Lefroy

Gear List

Group gear such as ropes and carabiners will be provided by Canadian Rockies Alpine Guides. The personal gear listed below is mandatory. Please inform us well in advance if you need to borrow any of these items. Items that are not available for loan must be rented or purchased. Rental and purchase information can be found here.
  • Small Pack (for day trips) - available for loan
  • Ice Climbing/Mountaineering Boots
  • Crampons - available for loan
  • Mountaineering Axe - available for loan
  • Harness - available for loan
  • Helmet - available for loan
  • Sweater/Fleece
  • Winter Jacket or Goretex/Softshell Jacket
  • Winter Pants or Goretex/Softshell Pants
  • Long Underwear
  • Gloves (2 pairs)
  • Toque
  • Sunglasses (important!)
  • Headlamp (with extra batteries)
  • Sunscreen
  • Gaitors (optional but highly recommended)
  • Water Bottles (2 litres)
  • Lunch

Overnight trips to Abbot Pass hut will also require:

  • Mid sized Pack, 45+ Liters (for multiday trips) - available for loan
  • Lightweight Sleeping Bag, the hut is heated by a fireplace.
  • Hut booties/flipflops/lightweight shoes.
  • Earplugs.
  • Food. You can bring your own food or purchase our meal packages, let us know your preference.
  • Small book if you like for the evenings.
Canadian Rockies Alpine Guides (CRAG) - - Canmore, Alberta, Canada