Canadian Rockies Alpine Guides - Mountaineering and Climbing on Mount Temple in Alberta's Rocky Mountains

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Rockies Ice Guides, Canada


Box 40087
Canmore, AB
T1W 3H9

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Mt. Temple Blog postings:
July 2010 (East Ridge)
Aug 2010 (East Ridge)
Mount Temple - the peak that towers above Lake Louise Mt Temple East Ridge and North Face, two of the Rockies best alpine climbs

Elevation: 3543m / 11624ft
Location: Lake Louise
Season: June - Early September
Logistics: All routes on Temple can be completed in a single day from the Canmore/Banff areas with an early start. Meeting place and time will depend on the route and current conditions.

Climber on the Greenwood / Jones route on the North Face of Mt. Temple.

East Ridge (IV 5.7)

Length of Day: 14 - 20 hours.
Max Group Size: 1 or 2, depending upon previous experience & skill level.
Prerequisites: Previous mountaineering experience required, and the ability to climb 5.7 rock quickly with boots and a pack on. Must be mentally and physically prepared for a long and challenging day of climbing.

This is likely the best alpine rock ridge in the entire Canadian Rockies. It offers excellent climbing throughout with lots of variety. After a short hike up the base, a few hours of good scrambling on good rock lead to the legendary Big Step. The Big Step consists of a number of steep rock climbing pitches (hard 5.7) on good quality quartzite. Above the big step, lower angle slopes lead to the Black Towers which are climbed in order to reach the upper glacier. A spectacular ice arete on the upper glacier leads to the summit. The descent down the SW Slopes is straightforward and scenic.

SW Slopes (I)

Length of Day: 7 - 11 hours
Max Group Size: 6
Prerequisites: good hiking fitness.
Dates: For info about scheduled dates, click here!

This lovely hike and scramble allows non-climbers to reach one of the highest summits in the Rockies. The views from the top are unbeatable and the trip is enjoyable throughout. This can make an excellent family outing as long as all participants are in good physical shape and are prepared to deal with some scrambling and steeper slopes. Due to bear restrictions in the area, groups of at least 3 (plus the guide) are often required in order to meet Parks Canada regulations.

The South West slopes of Mount Temple, the Canadian Rockies highest scramble.

North Face - Greenwood Jones (V 5.10)

Length of Day: 18 - 24 hours
Max Group Size: 1 person only. Due to the extreme length and difficulty of this climb, the cost will be much higher than for typical guided ascents.
Prerequisites: This route is only available at the discression of your guide after completing a number of other mountaineering objectives. Extremely high levels of physical and mental fitness, as well as proficient technical skills, are required. You must be able to follow hundreds of meters of 5.9 rock quickly, while wearing a light pack, and deal with the mental strain of a 18-24 hour non-stop day.

The upper glacier on Mt Temple after climbing the East Ridge, one of North America's 50 classic climbs.

Gear List

Group gear such as ropes and carabiners will be provided by Canadian Rockies Alpine Guides. The personal gear listed below is mandatory. Please inform us well in advance if you need to borrow any of these items. Items that are not available for loan must be rented or purchased. Rental and purchase information can be found here.
  • Small Pack (about 30 litres) - available for loan
  • Mountaineering Boots
  • Crampons (unneccessary for SW Slopes) - available for loan
  • Mountaineering Axe - available for loan
  • Rock Climbing Shoes (for East Ridge or North Face)
  • Harness - available for loan
  • Helmet - available for loan
  • Sweater/Fleece
  • Winter Jacket or Goretex/Softshell Jacket
  • Winter Pants or Goretex/Softshell Pants
  • Long Underwear
  • Gloves (2 pairs)
  • Toque
  • Sunglasses (important!)
  • Headlamp
  • Sunscreen
  • Gaitors (optional but highly recommended)
  • Water Bottles (2 litres)
  • Lunch
Canadian Rockies Alpine Guides (CRAG) - - Canmore, Alberta, Canada