Canadian Rockies Alpine Guides - Guided mountaineering trips up Mount Robson!

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Mountain climbing trips & training in the Canadian Rockies
Rock climbing around Canmore, Banff, lake louise, and Jasper
Rockies Ice Climbing Guides


Box 40087
Canmore, AB
T1W 3H9

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Mt. Robson Blog postings:
July 2010 (Furher Ridge)
Guided Ascents of Mount Robson Mt. Robson, highest peak in the Canadian Rockies

Elevation: 3954 / 12972ft - highest peak in Canadian Rockies
Location: North of Jasper
Season: mid July to early September.
Logistics: All climbs on Mt. Robson are difficult and take multiple days to complete. The weather on this great peak is highly variable and good conditions are never guaranteed. If weather does not allow an attempt on Robson, other nearby mountains will be attempted instead. Unless you have extensive previous experience, it is required that you complete at least one major climb with us before signing up for a Robson trip. Please contact us for more information.

Kain Route (IV) via Patterson Spur

Length of Trip: 4 days
Max Group Size: 1
Prerequisites: Previous glacier mountaineering experience, ice climbing experience, limestone scrambling experience, and a high fitness level.

The most popular route on the mountain and another Rockies classic. Although some climbers use a helicopter to fly halfway or more up the mountain, this misses out on the true Robson experience and removes much of the challenge. We will spend 1 long day or 2 shorter days hiking & scrambling to an amazing campsite about half way up the mountain on the Patterson Spur. From high camp we will start at around midnight and continue scrambling up to a rock ridge between Mt. Robson and Mt. Resplendant. Some climbing along the ridge leads us to the glacier below the ice face known as the Kain Face. A few hundred meters of 50 degree snow or ice climbing brings us to the long upper ice slopes known as "the roof". This challenging upper section leads over some wild ice & snow features until eventually reaching the summit! Descent back to high camp is made by the same route, and then down to the road the following day. All trips are scheduled to allow for at least one bad weather day. If time, weather, and energy levels allow, ascents of the Helmet or Mt. Resplendant may also be attempted.

Kain Face on Mount Robson The Kain Route on Mt. Robson ascends the ice slopes in middle of picture then up the ridge above.

Climbing the Gargoyles on Mount Robson
Climbing the last stretch of the Emperor Ridge above the North Face of Mt. Robson.

Other Routes

  • North Face (IV) A very serious and large ice face above Berg Lake. Only available at the discression of a guide you have already done some climbing with.
  • Furher Ridge (IV 5.7 mixed) A world class mixed snow, ice, and rock climb on the North Face. Only available at the discression of a guide you have already done some climbing with.
North Face on Mount Robson The South Face of Mt. Robson in the spring time.

Gear List

Group gear such as ropes, carabiners, tents and stoves will be provided by Canadian Rockies Alpine Guides. The personal gear listed below is mandatory. Please inform us well in advance if you need to borrow any of these items. Items that are not available for loan must be rented or purchased. Rental and purchase information can be found here.
Those attempting Mt. Robson need to have high quality and lightweight gear.
  • Backpack (about 60 litres)
  • Ice Climbing/Mountaineering Boots (must be heavily insulated leather such as Scarpa Mont Blanc's, Phantom Guides, La Sportiva Nepals, or similar)
  • Hiking boots or shoes for the approach
  • Crampons - available for loan
  • 2 Ice Climbing Axes - available for loan
  • Harness - available for loan
  • Helmet - available for loan
  • Belay device, 2 locking biners, 1 long sling & 2 sections of 6mm or 7mm cord on non-locking biners - available for loan
  • Sweater/Fleece
  • Softshell Pants
  • Goretex Jacket
  • Waterproof Pants
  • Down or Insulated Synthetic Jacket with hood.
  • Long Underwear tops & bottoms
  • Gloves (1 lightweight and 1 warm pair)
  • Extra socks
  • Toque
  • Sunglasses (important!)
  • Headlamp with extra batteries.
  • Sunscreen
  • Gaitors (optional if conditions are dry)
  • Sleeping Bag (-5C to -10C or so, lightweight down is best)
  • Sleeping Pad
  • Reading Book or ipod (optional)
  • Extra Socks
  • Water Bottles (2 litres)
  • Food (dinners we will likely arrange together)
  • Cup or light bowl and spoon
  • Hiking pole
  • Personal blister kit and/or medications as required
Canadian Rockies Alpine Guides (CRAG) - - Canmore, Alberta, Canada