Canadian Rockies Alpine Guides - Multiday Mountaineering on Mount Cline in the Whitegoat Wilderness area, Canada.

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Box 40087
Canmore, AB
T1W 3H9

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Mount Cline Blog postings:
June 2010
Mountaineering trip on Mount Cline, a Rockies 11000er

North side of Mount Cline with peaks of the Icefields Parkway behind

Elevation: 3361m, 11027ft
Location: David Thompson Highway. 1.5 hours from Canmore, 2 hours from Jasper.
Season: Mid May - October
Logistics: All routes on Mount Cline are 2 or 3 day trips. There is great rock climbing in basecamp that can be a part of a three day outing. Three days also allows us to wait out a day of bad weather if necessary.

Hidden Gully/South West Ridge (II, 5.4)

Normal route of ascent on Mt Cline Length of Trip: 2 or 3 days. Some rock climbing can be done in basecamp if the three day option is selected.
Max Group Size: 4
Prerequisites: good hiking fitness and a sense of adventure. If you have never done any climbing before or are unsure of your fitness, it is highly recommended that you plan on three days for this trip.

This normal route on Mount Cline makes an excellent introduction to climbing big mountains in the Rockies. It is a suitable adventure for those with little or no climbing experience. On day one we make a 4 or 5 hour hike into an amazing basecamp surounded by house-sized boulders and towering peaks. After setting up camp there may be time to do a bit of rock climbing on the massive boulders. The next morning we get up early and start the ascent. The climb begins with a long snow couloir on the shoulder of Mount Owen, from the top of the coulior we cross a small glacier to reach the ridge proper. The ridge starts out with easy scrambling but quickly narrows and offers an exciting crux section. The crux involves climbing and rappeling through two very exposed notches in the ridge. Although not overly difficult, the thousand foot drops on either side make this an experience to remember! Above the crux, easier slopes are followed to the summit of Mt. Cline. On a clear day it is possible to see literally hundreds of peaks including Mount Columbia, Mount Temple, Mount Forbes, and many more high Rockies peaks.

North Ridge (III 5.6 WI3)

North ridge climb on Mount Cline with the summit behind Length of Trip: 2 long days.
Max Group Size: 1
Prerequisites: Previous mountaineering experience, the ability to follow 5.6 rock climbing wearing boots and a pack, experience wearing crampons, and very good physical fitness.

A remote alpine ridge climb that provides a true wilderness adventure with climbing on rock, snow, and ice to the top of a Rockies 11000 foot peak! It is a two day climb with a bivi on the ridge along the way. Be prepared for lots of exposure and exciting climbing. Descent is down the South West Ridge.

East Face (IV 5.10b)

Route line for the East Face rock route on Mount Cline Length of Trip: 2 long days.
Max Group Size: 1
Prerequisites: This route is only available at the discression of your guide after completing a number of other mountaineering objectives. High levels of physical and mental fitness, as well as proficient technical skills, are required. You must be able to follow hundreds of meters of 5.9 rock quickly, while wearing a light pack, and deal with the mental strain of a 12-18 hour non-stop day.

The first ascent of this route was made by CRAG's head guide, J. Mills, and is one of the best alpine rock routes in the range. After hiking in and camping at the base of the face as very early start will see us starting the climb at first light. Thirteen long pitches of excellent rock climbing (mostly 5.8 and 5.9) lead up the wall following cracks, corners, and other features. The crux 5.10b pitch comes near the end and is followed by the most exposed 5.9 pitch you will ever climb. This route is a true gem and is not to be missed by those with the skills and endurance to make an ascent. Recommended training routes would include Ultra Brewers on Castle Mountain and lots of multipitch rock climbing. Descent is made down the South West Ridge.

J Mills climbing on the First Ascent of Mt Cline's east face

Gear List

Group gear such as ropes, carabiners, and tents will be provided by Canadian Rockies Alpine Guides. The personal gear listed below is mandatory. Please inform us well in advance if you need to borrow any of these items. Items that are not available for loan must be rented or purchased. Rental and purchase information can be found here.
  • Mid-sized Pack, 45+ Liters - available for loan
  • Lightweight Sleeping Bag.
  • Sleeping Pad (foamy or Thermarest)
  • Food. You can bring your own food or purchase our meal packages, let us know your preference.
  • Ice Climbing/Mountaineering Boots
  • Crampons - available for loan
  • Mountaineering Axe - available for loan
  • Harness - available for loan
  • Helmet - available for loan
  • Rock Shoes (East Face only)
  • Hiking poles/Ski poles
  • Sweater/Fleece
  • Winter Jacket or Goretex/Softshell Jacket
  • Winter Pants or Goretex/Softshell Pants
  • Long Underwear
  • Gloves (2 pairs)
  • Toque
  • Sunglasses (important!)
  • Headlamp (with extra batteries)
  • Sunscreen
  • Gaitors (optional but highly recommended)
  • Water Bottles (2 litres)
  • Lunch
Canadian Rockies Alpine Guides (CRAG) - - Canmore, Alberta, Canada